|The Olde Towne Antiques to Flea Market is held |
the first Saturday of each month in Portsmouth, Virginia
Saturday, May 4, 2013
The popular "Antiques to Flea Market’ is held the first Saturday of each month, in Olde Towne Portsmouth. Browse through an eclectic collection of unique and antique wares. With over 60 dealers and vendors exhibiting, bargain hunters and serious collectors will discover a great selection of antique and estate furniture, architectural antiques, china, silverware, art and prints, sporting gear, musical instruments, books and ephemera. There are even hand-made crafts and toys, as well as decorative accessories and flea market items of all types and one-of-a-kind items priced to sell. Held inside the Middle Street garage located on the corner of Middle and London.
The Olde Towne Antiques to Flea Market opens at 10 am til 2 pm. Come early for best selections! http://www.oldetowneportsmouth.com/ or call 757-339-1876. Sponsored by the Olde Towne Business Association.
Wednesday, March 20, 2013
4th Annual Elizabeth River
Yard Sale & Flea Market
Saturday, May 18, 2013
9am to 5pm
Ocean Marine Parking Lot on Wavy Street in Portsmouth
Individual Vendor Space: $10.00
Bring your own tables or tents.
Call (757)321-7432 for more information and to reserve your space!
Friday, February 22, 2013
Notice that the point where the anchor position is set in the alarm is the position of the GPS and not the position of the bow/anchor.
Written by Karen Siegel
It should be simple. Pick the spot to anchor; come to a stop; drop the anchor and set the anchor alarm. Then pull back until the anchor sets. Now if you pull away further from the anchor set point than the distance
you specified, alarms should go off, right?
Well, not exactly. The mathematics are surprisingly a lot more complex. We know. It seems easy and obvious. We've been involved in many debates until the pencil and paper come out and then, "oh yeah" is heard.
Here's the missing magical point. You've got to notice that the point where the anchor position is set in the alarm is the position of the GPS and not the position of the bow/anchor. That one small point ends up
bringing a whole bunch of trigonometry into the calculation. When the boat swings 180 degrees, the error created by that offset equals twice the distance from the bow to the GPS.
Let's take an example for a typical 42' sailboat with a GPS on the stern rail. This is the worst case problem but is very typical and demonstrates what happens very well.
So we're anchoring in 10' of water with a bow that's 5' off the water's surface. A good scope for a night without much weather expected would be 5:1. This means 75' of rode will be let out and pulled back to set hard (we call that power setting). The anchor alarm is set at 125', way more than the 75 put out. And since we power set the anchor, we couldn't possibly move 50', right?
At 3 am, because these things always happen at 3 am, the anchor alarm goes off. You're 127' back. You remember that you way over added to the 75' and start planning what you're going to do in the total black of night with the moderate wind that's now blowing.
What really happened is that the tide changed at 1 am. During the next 2 hours you slowly swung around moving back. Not realizing this new math for anchor alarms you didn't realize that the GPS displacement caused 84' of position error in the anchor alarm. Your alarm went off after moving back only 52'. In reality, your anchor alarm should watch you move back another 32' without your anchor moving 1 inch on the sea floor. The anchor alarm should have probably been set at about 75 + 84 + 10 + 10 = 179 feet. The two 10's are for GPS accuracy error and slop since the anchor doesn't set immediately. Can you imagine setting an anchor alarm at almost 200' with only 75' of rode out? And yet, that's the right number.
We haven't found an anchor alarm that compensates for this GPS positional error. It's one of the reasons we wrote DragQueen (available for free in the Apple app store and Google Play). Since the anchor alarm is on a phone, the GPS position is the phone itself. When deploying the anchor, we stand with the iPhone at the bow to eliminate one half the GPS position error. There's still another position error based on where the GPS is located while we sleep at night (25' back in our stateroom).
Remember too that this positional error happens at all angles. Swing about 90 degrees to the side and the error is about 1 times the GPS displacement distance. Even that can be significant.
Given a heading/fluxgate sensor and a few configuration settings, 100% of this GPS positional error could be eliminated. How come not a single marine electronics manufacturer has done it?
If you're still saying, "wait a second - there's not a 2x error in the position" - check out this graphic proof of what happens. We'll wait to hear the "oh yeah":
Tuesday, October 30, 2012
|Be on the lookout for floating debris from Hurricane Sandy. Debris like this that |
could seriously damage the hull of your boat.
The fact is that small boats moving at high speeds can be sunk easily by striking a submerged object, whether it's a tree, parts of buildings, fences, landscape timbers or other debris washed down in recent storms.
What's the best precaution? Slow down after significant rain events and post extra lookouts - the more eyes the better. It's really a problem for any boat as running gear and out drives can be damaged and lead to water coming in.
MILE MARKER "0" AICW BLOG HAS THESE FOUR TIPS:
Before you go: Have all of the safety and communications gear aboard and ensure the bilge pumps are working and there is no debris in the bilge. It's always a good idea to have an extra bailer or two aboard, such as a bucket, emergency hand pump or even a cut-off detergent bottle. Also understand that navigational aids may have shifted.
Stop for any "thud": If you hear a thud, always stop the boat immediately and inspect the bilge or storage compartments for damage - then check again a short while later. A crack can open up after a boat has bounced around a while. Another sign of damage is the boat may feel "funny" or less responsive, a sign that water is coming aboard.
Put on life jackets: If you find water coming aboard - even if it's just a trickle - immediately put on your life jacket and notify the Coast Guard as you could lose the power and the ability to send a distress call on your VHF. It takes only seconds for a trickle to get worse.
Be prepared to improvise: If you do find a hole in the hull, bilge pumps alone may not stem the tide. Use anything you may have aboard such as towels, wooden bungs (keep them handy for plugging round holes such as prop shaft logs), or other gear to wedge into holes or cracks.
This blog is brought to you by the staff at Skipjack Nautical Wares & Marine Gallery located in Olde Towne Portsmouth, Virginia. http://www.skipjackmarinegallery.com Be safe!
Friday, October 26, 2012
|Hurrican Sandy is heading up the Atlantic coast.|
She's just a day old - and even though no hurricane watches or warnings have yet been posted for the eastern US - Hurricane Sandy is getting some big time attention from forecasters because of unique circumstances that could make her more threatening. Some the forecast models predict Sandy will move into the Northeast next week, merging with another weather system with the potential to form a "Perfect Storm." Boat Owners Association of The United States (BoatUS) says regardless of how the predictions pan out, boaters need to take heed.
"It gets more interesting as we get closer to the weekend," said BoatUS Director of Damage Avoidance Bob Adriance. "A lot could change, but if you're a boat owner anywhere from the mid-Atlantic to New England, moving up your winter haul-out plans before the storm arrives would be a good idea." And if you can't, you won't regret taking some basic hurricane preparation steps now to help keep your boat safe if this storm touches down near you. "Regardless of whether Sandy meets up with the Great Lakes cold front for a storm of 'historical proportions' as one weather blogger put it, heavy rains and gusty winds could impact much of the Northeast," added Adriance.
Basic, heavy weather preparation includes removing all sails and biminis, clearing the decks of any removable equipment, making sure scuppers and drains aren't blocked, and adding extra lines and chafe gear. If deck scuppers and drains aren't cleared of fall leaves, heavy rains can sink a boat stored in the water, even if it is docked inland at a protected location, or cause water damage to a boat stored on the hard.
Vessels in slips on open water with little wave protection are most vulnerable. The best plan is to remove the boat and store it on high ground. BoatUS has found that when storing boats ashore, using tie-downs secured from deck cleats to anchors embedded in the concrete pad or screwed into the earth with helical anchors can nearly eliminate most storm damage.
Trailerboats should be stored away from trees with the bow up and the drain plug out, with any loose gear removed, and a rope or strap cinched tight securing the boat firmly to the trailer. If a boat cannot be removed from a boat lift, the drain plug should also be removed and the vessel tied securely to its lifting machinery.
BoatUS.com/hurricanes offers easily downloadable storm planning materials including up-to-the-minute storm tracking tools with live satellite images, a hurricane preparation worksheet, an in-depth Boater's Guide to Preparing Boats and Marinas for Hurricanes, and checklists for what to do before and after a hurricane strikes. Sample hurricane plans for boat and yacht clubs are also offered.
Any boat owner seeking the services of a professional delivery captain to move a vessel to a safer location can go to the BoatUS Captains Locator at BoatUS.com/procaptains. Boaters can also sign-up to receive advisories from the National Hurricane Center as they are issued, as well as detailed maps of the forecast track, wind bands and more at Boatus.com/hurricanes/signup.
Tuesday, October 23, 2012
|Putting a Boat Away for the Winter? What You Need to Know About E-10 Gas|
ALEXANDRIA, Va., October 23, 2012 - Nearly full tank or nearly empty tank? That is the big question facing boaters now in the midst of preparing their boats for the long winter hibernation. The concern is ethanol - an octane enhancing gasoline additive that has some unfortunate, harmful side effects on marine engines. Boat Owners Association of The United States (BoatUS) has some tips learned from fuel industry insiders on how to store a boat with E-10 gasoline (containing 10% ethanol) over the winter.
- The octane issue: Some boaters choose to leave their boat's gas tank mostly empty over the winter, and then refill in the spring in the hopes of "refreshing" the fuel to regain any octane loss. However, a nearly empty gas tank introduces a bigger problem: the strong possibility of phase separation with the E-10 gas. Incidentally, over long winter storage periods, E-10 gasoline loses octane at about the same rate as non-ethanol gasoline.
- The path to phase separation: Ethanol (an alcohol) can attract and absorb water - about 10 times more than regular gasoline - and still burn harmlessly through the engine. However, there comes a tipping point when the ethanol can no longer absorb the water, and the alcohol will separate out or "phase separate" from the gasoline. When this happens, the solution of water soaked ethanol will settle to the bottom of the tank, which is where the engine's fuel system pick-up is located. Can you see where we are headed with this?
- More water, less absorption: The problem with leaving a tank mostly empty is that it increases the tank's "lung capacity" to breath in moist air (water) through the tank's vent. If the tank is mostly empty over the winter, there will also be less E-10 gas in the tank to absorb the moisture. This combination of more water and less capacity for absorption greatly increases the chances of phase separation. Adding fresh gasoline in the spring would not remedy the problem - the phase-separated ethanol remains separated at the bottom of the tank.
- The Water Separator issue: E-10 can hold up to 1/2 percent of water by volume and up to that concentration the water molecules will dissolve in the gasoline forming a soluble mixture that will pass through a water separator and burn harmlessly in your engine. The only time water will collect in a tank and not be absorbed is if phase separation has occurred, and by then it will be too late. A water separator is not a solution to the phase separation problem.
- The Fuel Additive issue: Fuel additives are good for many reasons and should be used when laying up a boat for winter, but no additive will stand up to a good-sized slug of water. And once too much water has entered the tank and the gas has begun to phase separate, no additive will return the fuel to its original state. The only solution to phase-separated gas is to have a professional drain the tank and start anew.
Keep the tank nearly full. This greatly reduces the volume of moist air that can enter the tank via the fuel tank vent when temperatures fluctuate in the fall and spring. With any fuel, an antioxidant (found in many additives) will help keep it fresh during lay-up. Finally, never plug up a fuel tank vent - it creates pressure that could cause dangerous leaks in the fuel system.
For more information go to www.boatus.com/seaworthy/